Scottish Watches Podcast #561 : What Actually Happened At Watches and Wonders 2024

Scottish Watches

Welcome to the Scottish Watches Podcast Episode 561! Deep dive with us into what happened last week at Watches and Wonders 2024!

Click here to read along and see the photos in our show notes as you listen – http://www.scottishwatches.co.uk/2024/04/16/scottish-watches-podcast-561-what-actually-happened-at-watches-and-wonders-2024/

A special thank you, for helping us cover the biggest watch event of the year, goes to @wildwristwatch, @onliberty1859, @koolpep_watches, @mr.c.mojo, @robbieandwatches, @philipbwing, @the.nightwatch.man, @batch_watches, @whatsonherwrist.

Our taxi’s dashboard. Nico Leonard spotted. Scottish Watches Podcast #428 : The Story of Nico Leonard from Pride and Pinion Plus The Unicorn DaytonaSneak peek at UN Freak S Nomad. Dave wearing his Horage Supersede GMT and Rikki wearing his Moser Memeliner. Dave’s Moser Streamliner Green Dragon. Rikki’s Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma.Our hotel.IWC – IWC Watches and Wonders. Lockers in the press area. Before and after….

TAG Heuer Watches and Wonders. If you ask anyone about a true and tested Chronograph company, TAG Heuer will probably come up first. One of their most iconic models is the Monaco. For the 2023 edition of OnlyWatch, they submitted a split-second chronograph. And now we get this very special version of the Monaco with the famed Rattrapante functionality. Sure it’s not the slimmest with 15.2mm thickness. It’s not the easiest to pull off with its quite large square look. But just look at it, the skeletonization, sandblasted titanium visible clearly through the sapphire case back. And the movement is a joy to look at. Developed in cooperation with Vaucher (Parmigiani, Hermes) and also used in some form even in Richard Mille watches shows, TAG can play in the big league if they want to. And the price reflects that with a Richard Mille-ish CHF 165,000, available from June. Scottish Watches Podcast #529 : Its Our Christmas ShowMoser din dins.

Pioneer Centre Seconds 3201-1201. Pioneer Centre Seconds 3201-1204. Elaborate in execution but minimalist in appearance. The H. Moser & Cie Concept series’s stars are the complex dials that are barren, apart from a handset, so the hand-craftsmanship gets all the attention. Following this execution is the new Moser Pioneer Concept Citrus Green. The watch has a killer vibrant lime-green fume dial with soft transitions from yellow hues at the center and green on the edges. The flow of color is made even more stunning with a sunburst finish. With artistic dials even necessary elements like the hands can seem out of place but here the partially skeletonized and luminescent leaf-shaped hands look right at home and more conceptually connected to the dial thanks to the unusual design choice to frame the lime dial with a Super-LumiNova flange. This pairs with the everyday sports nature of the Pioneer case. Especially here where the 42.8mm x 10.6mm (14.2mm tall including the high domed sapphire crystal) x 51mm frame is mostly brushed. The rugged flourishes of the ridges on the sculpted 22mm lugs are one of our favorite lug designs. To sit between them, one can choose a three-link bracelet, leather or textile strap, and, our pick, a blue rubber band that perfectly complements the green dial. The Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green operated by the Swiss-made HMC 201 movement, boasts a robust 3-day power reserve (gained with a bi-directional pawl winding system) and a new partially open architecture finished with Moser’s double stripes, anthracite coating, and gold detailing. Beating at 3Hz, the balance wheel’s impressive Straumann hairspring delivers great stability and thus accuracy. https://www.instagram.com/p/C5qwZoWge33/ Streamliner Tourbillon 6814-1200. H. Moser & Cie. is building on the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton released at Watches and Wonders 2022 with a second venture into skeletonization with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton. Now, with the caliber HMC 814, the dials/movement is a piece of skeletonized art conceived from a caliber that wasn’t designed in this fashion but looks stunning. Even better with the steel Streamliner case (40mm x 12.1mm) and bracelet. Some bridges almost mimic the link shape of the integrated bracelet, which itself is handsomely finished with fine brushing and polished between the links. The fully skeletonized caliber enhances the motion of the one-minute flying tourbillon, equipped with a cylindrical hairspring with 2 Breguet curves at 6 o’clock. The main plate and bridges are anthracite coated with some rose gold elements like the skeletonized oscillating weight that charges the 72h of power reserve, finished with diamond beveling The rose gold of the movement is picked up by the hands and indices. These boast Globolight inserts. The Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton joins the regular collection for CHF 79,000. https://www.instagram.com/p/C5nK4s-LtR_/ Tudor New Watches. https://www.instagram.com/p/C5irXMjLDr1/. Tudor has absolutely delivered on the wish list of their fans with the new Black Bay 58 GMT. Size, mainly thickness, has been the main criticism of Tudor’s GMT watches. That’s no longer the case with this as it takes on the 39mm diameter of the Black Bay 58 and reduces the thickness from 15mm to a nice 12.8mm, and it reduces the lug to lug by 3mm. Extremely wearable proportions thanks to the new Kenissi manufacture caliber MT5450-U. This movement has the traveler’s GMT configuration, so local time is adjustable in 1-hour increments. It is a robust caliber that is bought COSC and METAS certified, accurate to -2 and +4 seconds per day, anti-magnetic with a silicon balance spring, and has a power reserve of 65 hours. There’s also a date complication displayed at 3. The cherry on top is the retro look that they’ve gone for with a coke anodized aluminum split 24h bezel insert with golden markers that match the finishing of the snowflake handset and applied markers on a matte black dial. The faux rivet style 3-link bracelet also complements this aesthetic, though it could do without it. The bracelet’s been upgraded with the T-Fit clasp for on-the-fly adjustment. On bracelet this goes for CHF 4,300 and 200 less on the rubber. The Tudor Black Bay 41 mm is back in black for those who want a classic, no-date dive watch with notable upgrades. Without any of the usual gilded detailing, the 7941A1A0NU has a pure tool watch appearance. An extremely legible black sunburst dial with white printing and rhodium-plated applied markers filled with Super LumniNova and a snowflake hour hand that no one can miss (sward hand for the minutes and lolipop for the seconds). The same can be said for the 60-minute diving scale on the aluminum insert of the unidirectional fluted bezel. The more pronounced fluted bezel is one upgrade to the case, helping with grip, of many which include a height reduction to 13.6mm from almost 15 previously, a bubble style case back helps disguise the height along with slimmer lugs, as well as a domed sapphire crystal. Furthermore, the screw-down crown, which ensures 200m of water resistance, has an understated look compared to older models, with it being slimmer, closer to the case, and with no aluminum ring. It’s still decorated with the emblematic Tuder Rose. Inside beats the Calibre MT5602-U with Master Chronometer certification. If you’re looking for an alternative to the no-date Rolex Submariner, this is it for $4225-4550, and you can get the full look with the tree link bracelet, additionally, there’s the rubber strap, but we would go for that handsome 5 link option. All three come with the T-fit clasp. Tudor BB Chrono Pink. Tudor Alinghi. Montblanc Watches and Wonders. Montblanc is pushing the boundaries this year at Watches and Wonders, and it’s doing so by joining the club of the so-called ‘’ultra-deep divers’’ with its new Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810. The new piece is 43mm in diameter by 19.2 mm in height. We can say that this is within range for a watch that can reach out a whooping 4810 meters or 15780 Ft of depth. The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen has all the oxygen removed from the case once it is assembled to avoid oxidization of the internal mechanics and components, another reason for this procedure is that it avoids any fogging with temperature fluctuations. Although it seems that this type of technology is not for everyone or everyday use, it is refreshing to see companies finding their own specific goals to keep pushing the technology on their watches. The dial was created with an old technique from the 19th century called gratté-boisé, which consists of a tedious technique of polishing the dial without losing any material, this allows the Iced Sea dial to have that unique pattern with lots of depth. Inside the Iced Sea 0 Oxygen, we find the manufacture caliber MB29.29, which has been COSC certified, self-winding mechanism, and provides a power reserve of five days. It is also worth noting that the watch complies with the current ISO 6425 standard. The Montblanc Iced Sea Oxygen Deep 4810 is available soon for 9100 USD. High-end watchmaking and Montblanc have been walking hand and hand for a while. These days, together with the great expertise drawn by their relationship with Minerva, Montblanc has released the 1858 The Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph for this edition of Watches and Wonders. The idea remains the same, to show the beautiful inner workings of the chronograph without having to turn the watch over. From the top, we can see contrasting finishings in blue against the German silver plates, it is all very dramatic but, for the new 1858 The Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph we have 5 sapphire crystal windows from the side. With this new feature, the 43mm stainless steel case provides the wearer with a new perspective on the MB17.26 manual movement. The sapphire apertures (hence the name of the watch includes ‘’unveiled’’) also allow more light to enter the case, this should let appreciate better all the inner workings. There is a 60-minute counter and a seconds subdial with a different hand tip to differentiate each other. The cathedral-style hands take little or no attention to the feast of metal under the main sapphire crystal, and of course, we have a characteristic pointed arrow close to the center at 12 o’clock. The height of the watch is 14.78mm. Other design cues include a coin bezel, the large mono-pusher crown, and a blue sfumato calf leather with alligator print. The price for the Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph is to be confirmed and will be limited to 100 examples. Novelties Hermes. Hermes H08. Nico outside Grand Seiko with an adamantium suit button . Grand Seiko Watches and Wonders. Watches & Wonders 2024: Grand Seiko SLGW002 & SLGW003 – The Perfect Watches? Scottish Watches Podcast #350 : The Grand Seiko Show – With Rob BrookScottish Watches Podcast #456 : The Grand Seiko Show 2023 With Rob Brook Chopard New Creations Watches and Wonders. Vacheron Constantin Watches and Wonders. Vacheron Constantin is delivering a new update on their Overseas collection. Touching almost all segments of the Overseas, ‘’La Maison’’ is now offering their second ever Overseas on a Titanium grade 5 case in 42.5 mm. The watch houses an ultra-slim movement just 5.65 millimeters thick, a tourbillon cage based on the iconic Maltese cross. With 188 parts and a power reserve of 3 days, the new reference 6000V/210T-H032 seems to be one of the most wearable tourbillons out there. The price of the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is on request only.Green also seems to be the color of choice for Vacheron Constantin this year. In the department of complications, we can find the new Overseas Chronograph and the Overseas Dual time in full rose gold with a sunburst Green Olive Dial. The Chronograph reference 5520V/210R-B966 has a case of 42.5mm and it houses the self-winding calibre 5200 with the Geneva Hallmark. In the case of the Overseas Dual Time Reference 7920V/210R-B965 the case is slightly smaller at 41mm and houses the calibre 5110 DT/2 which is also awarded the Geneva Hallmark. Prices of both variants are upon request.

To finish strong, the ‘’basic’’ lineup also got the pink gold treatment. The new reference 4520V/210R-B967 is also adorned with the sunburst green from the Dual Time and the Chronograph models. With a 41mm case and the self-winding caliber 5100, it seems to be the perfect choice for a more elegant interpretation of the steel variant, both watches share the same technical specification. On the smaller side, we also have the 35mm Overseas reference 4605V/200R-B969 variant in full pink gold with a setting of 90 cut diamonds. The watch is powered by the calibre 1088/1 which is only 3.83mm thick. Both watches are only available upon request.

Bremont Parmigiani Watches and Wonders. Van Cleef and Arpels Watches and Wonders 2024. Arnold and Son. Watch Alert: Arnold & Son Longitude Titanium

… oh you thought that was it?

Stay tuned for part 2 out Thursday where we cram in the REST of the releases we couldnt fit in this show!

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