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Jay and Lee have been friends for 20 years, and they've been chatting about climbing pretty much the whole time, be it in person, via text, or on social media. Now they take their witty conversation to the next frontier: a podcast. Join them as they discuss current events and trends in climbing, their recent climbing adventures, and whatever else that comes up. It's basically like crag spray, but recorded!
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Victory Through Guts (VTG for short) is a podcast covering the early-1990s in the world of Joshi Puroresu—Japanese Women's Professional Wrestling. Listen to Writer/Podcasters Dylan Murray & Alex Richards as they dissect shows from AJW, JWP, LLPW, and FMW, watching the rise of stars like Bull Nakano, Aja Kong, Akira Hokuto, and many more.
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Ladd Raine, President of the Rumney Climber’s Association, is on the pod today to talk all about Rumney and the upcoming AAC Craggin’ Classic on Sept 6-8. Ladd and I talk about what a local climbing organization (LCO) does, the history of the Rumney Climber’s Association and The Craggin’ Classic, what to expect at The Craggin’ Classic, how to repor…
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New England climbers Ryan Loiselle and Dan Knisell join Jay on the show today to talk about their very cool new business - Real Stone Holds. The guys share the benefits of using stone holds when doing indoor climbing, the unique process they use to craft each stone hold, the experience they’ve had building a business in the climbing industry, and h…
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Nate Liles is back on the pod! If you watch climbing media, you’ve most likely seen Nate’s work as a videographer and photographer. Today he’ll take us behind the scenes to give us a glimpse of what it takes to create awesome climbing media. We’ll talk about the challenging process of rigging equipment to capture the ascent, the considerations Nate…
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Certified Performance Climbing Coach Leif Gasch of Substr8 Climbing is on the show today for a deep dive conversation about the fundamentals of training. We’ll talk about how to know when you’re ready for training, the importance of setting a strong foundation for your body, cultivating an open mindset toward climbing, and how to schedule training …
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We’re officially entering into a new phase of the First Ascent Podcast, and I could think of no one better to join me than my longtime climbing buddy, James Schroeder. With over 27 years of climbing under his belt, James has a lot of insight to offer. So, we’ll tackle some recently submitted listener questions. You’ll hear our thoughts about the re…
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On May 21st, First Ascent co-host Lee Hansche passed away while setting routes at the climbing gym while he worked. Today, Jay is releasing the final episode that they recorded together, as it reflects what a great man Lee was and what a joy it was to speak with him about climbing. If you would like to donate in Lee’s name, please visit https://www…
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One of the coolest things about climbing is the rich historical lineage behind each route. From cans on spires, to guide books and magazines, and now Mountain Project, documentation that traces the history of a climb is an inspiring thing that connects us to the past. Not every route has a pristine historical record, however. This has caused a rift…
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Nadya Vorotnikova is on the pod today for an awesome talk about loving the process and breaking self limiting beliefs. Nadya grew up in Russia, moved to New Hampshire when she was 10, and now lives in Colorado - and she’s been climbing all along. This journey has exposed her to so many different mental approaches to training and climbing and has ma…
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North Conway native and long time climber Chris Graham, or ‘Grammy’ as he’s affectionately known, is a familiar face on both sides of the mountains, both as a climber and as a guide. His climbing career goes so far back that he can boast that he climbed at Rumney before there were bolts! Today, Chris shares his experiences as a guide, gives his opi…
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Few people have done more for the development of climbing bolt technology than Dave Quinn. Dave is one of the original developers of Rumney, a core member of Team Tough, and an all around bolting expert. Today’s he’s returning to the podcast to share updates about The Team Tough Crossover Bolt, which just passed U.I.A.A. certification. In this epis…
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Tom Bowker is the undeniable godfather of the climbing scene in Waterville Valley. Tom’s prolific number of first ascents over his 40 year climbing career make him one of the most well known names in the region. His first ascents include Peer Pressure, Journey to Lost World, and dozens more. Today, Tom shares awesome tales about how his routes came…
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It’s finally happening! Today’s conversation is all about bouldering. Boulderer extraordinaire Jake Perry is with us to answer all of your bouldering questions. We cover a wide range of bouldering topics, including grades, highballs, skin care, and the most important question: Why? Would you like to hear a bonus episode with Nate? Join us over on t…
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Last week we opened the floor to our Instagram followers - they hit us with all of the questions, comments, criticisms and praise that they wanted to throw our way. Today we’re digging through the comments and sharing our replies. Hear our thoughts on everything from cracked ribs, to peregrine falcons, to bouldering, to square roots and everything …
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The guys are getting worked up in today’s episode as they each share their five biggest crag annoyances. Life is all about balance, though! So you’ll also learn about their five favorite things at the crag. What is your biggest crag annoyance? Or your favorite thing? Let us know on Instagram at @firstascentpod! Join us over on the First Ascent Patr…
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Nate Liles, the Development Director of the American Safe Climbing Association, is here today for an in depth talk about bolt replacement. The ASCA has been doing incredible work replacing old bolts and hardware on routes throughout the country. Since their inception, the ASCA has supported the replacement of 70,000 bolts! In this episode, we talk …
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We are psyched to welcome philosopher, author and avid climber Francis Sanzaro to the pod! His book, The Zen of Climbing, is a must read for any climber seeking to develop a stronger mindset toward climbing. We’ll talk about the benefits of releasing attachments and expectations in climbing, the mental state that the most elite climbers inhabit whe…
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Welcome back to Part Two of the First Ascent Superlative Awards! Be sure to check out Part One if you haven’t yet. It’s time for us to pay our yearly homage to the incredible climbing that our great state of New Hampshire has to offer. With the tallest mountains and the best granite, NH is home to the epicenter of New England climbing, and in today…
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Welcome to the First Ascent Superlative Awards! It’s time for us to pay our yearly homage to the incredible climbing that our great state of New Hampshire has to offer. With the tallest mountains and the best granite, NH is home to the epicenter of New England climbing, and in today’s episode we’ll share our votes for the best of the best in New Ha…
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The spring climbing season is just around the corner, and it has us thinking about all of the projects that we’re ready to work on this season. Mike Gagnon is back on the pod today to chat all about it. We’ll each share our approaches to projecting. We’ll tell stories of projects that we sent (and some that we didn’t). We’ll lay out how first ascen…
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Jay and Lee are here today to answer your latest batch of listener questions! You’ll get their thoughts on a wide range of questions, including the best Rumney sequences, tips for warm fingertips, soul climbing on projects, the role of gym climbing, and even who would be big spoon in an emergency bivvy situation. Plus, the ever-smoldering gates in …
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The Mt. Washington Valley Ice Fest was last weekend and it’s one of our favorite events of the year. With a huge turnout and beautiful weather, it was an event that couldn’t be beat. We were on the scene with our mic to capture the spirit of the event. Enjoy this slice of life from Ice Fest! You might just hear yourself or your buddy on the pod. Jo…
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Today Jay and Lee pen a love letter to the crown jewel of New England sport climbing - Waimea! The flagship crag of Rumney offers a climbing experience like no other, and today the guys break down why it is both so loved and feared. They’ll share stories about their own histories on the crag, and reflect on how they’ve improved as climbers through …
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In today’s episode, Jay and Lee share their picks for the best gear they’ve used in the last year. If you’re looking for (mostly) unbiased recs for new gear, this episode is for you! Plus, the guys share their most hated gear, as well. So you know you’re in for a treat. Check out the gear recommendations here: DMM Belay Master Carabiner: https://dm…
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High level climber Rollin Grimmett is with us today to talk about his recent send of the 5.14d climb, Life of Villians in Southern Utah. Rollin shares about how he tackled this send, and he walks us through the calculated training regimen he follows as an outdoor climber in order to push his grades. Rollin also has a great Instagram at @rrgrimmett,…
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Happy New Year, First Ascent listeners! We’re back from our break and ready for 2024. Today we’re starting the year off with an episode all about New Year’s resolutions. We’re sharing ours, reading submissions from our listeners, and judging each resolution as we go. Plus, we discuss a hot topic: how important is it to be truthful about your climbi…
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It’s been an amazing year on the podcast! Incredible guests, fascinating conversations and more than a few bloopers have been had. In order to celebrate the end of the year, we’ve compiled a compilation of some of our favorite moments, plus a few of those bloopers. We’ll be taking our very first break over the holiday season, but be sure to tune ba…
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Ice and mixed climber extraordinaire Pat Cooke is back on the pod to help us usher in a new season of ice climbing! Jay had the pleasure of joining Pat on a mixed climb of Fafnir on Cannon Cliff recently and today they’re here to talk all about the experience. The guys talk about how gear can make all the difference in an ice climb, the mantras and…
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Our good buddy Jeremy Ballou is on the pod today! Jeremy is a long time friend of the pod who has never shied away from correcting us on our many mistakes. He is also the namesake of Jeremy’s Wall in Miriam Woods. Jeremy adds his candid hot takes to a new crop of listener questions, airs his grievances with the climbing world, and generally reminds…
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Today we’re joined by Vance White! Vance has put up over a hundred routes in the Lander area, is the author of “Lander Rock: Rock Climbs of Central Wyoming”, and is simply one of the nicest climbers in the land. Our chat with Vance today covers bolting philosophy, the importance of generational mentorship, music at the crag, developing routes with …
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Thanksgiving is upon us, and we have so much to be grateful for in the climbing world. From our partners to our health, our gear, experiences and everything in between, we’re breaking down the things that mean the most to us in this incredible activity that we all share. One thing we’re so grateful for is our amazing First Ascent Patreon community!…
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Lee’s in Vegas, baby! So, there’s no better time to talk about how the Las Vegas climbing scene has absolutely exploded in the last decade. Lee shares what he’s been up to, and then the guys list some of their favorite things about the area. Plus, they explore how different the western mindset is when it comes to long approaches, and what we lose i…
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Russ Clune joins Jay and Lee on the pod today to chat about his new book ‘The Lifer: Climbing Adventures in The Gunks and Beyond’. Russ is one of the best traveled climbers in the history of our sport. He has climbed and put up routes on every continent other than Antarctica, and he has the stories to prove it. Today he’ll share about his free solo…
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Josh Garrison joins Jay and Lee on the pod today to talk about his awesome free solo linkup on Cannon Cliff that he completed in less than 3 hours. He’ll walk you step-by-step through the entire experience, and share his thoughts on the less than enjoyable feedback he received when posting about it online. Then, Jay and Lee will share their stories…
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Accomplished mixed climber Zac St. Jules is on the show today to help us get ready for the upcoming winter season! Zac shares more about Forecast Equipment’s awesome tool, The Nor*Easter, and helps us answer listener questions about when to throw in the towel (or not) on a project and what is necessary in order to become a well rounded climber. Che…
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It’s time for another round of listener questions! Today, Jay and Lee tackle how to achieve the elusive work/life/climbing balance, the Central New Hampshire Climbers Association, chossineering, the new LCO in town and traveling internationally to climb vs staying in the states. Plus, hear about Josh Garrison’s solo speed enchainment at Franconia N…
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The Autumnal Climbing Season is upon us! The conditions at the crag keep getting better and better... but that ticking clock in the back of our heads tells us that our time is limited before winter slams the door shut on a lot of opportunities for the season. Jay and Lee reflect on this bittersweet truth and share how their outlooks on it have chan…
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Kayte and Torie are back on the First Ascent mics for their second Wifecast! Today’s episode gets philosophical as Kayte and Torie talk about how climbing is a metaphor for taking risks in life. Plus, hear their takes on being their own climbers while being married to strong climbers, having grace with their bodies and minds during hormonal changes…
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Today Jay and Lee revisit the 2002 classic climbing film “Uncommon Ground”. The guys will go through the featured climbs one-by-one, highlighting all the ways that this film absolutely nails the spirit of New England climbing. This episode originated from an awesome chat on the First Ascent Patreon Discord! Do you want to be part of conversations l…
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Live from Rumney, it’s The First Ascent Podcast! We got to connect with so many climbers at the awesome AAC Craggin Classic this past weekend. The winds from Hurricane Lee kept the bugs away and made for perfect weather for a weekend of climbing and community. We brought our recorder along with us to the crag so that we could bring you a slice of l…
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Today Jay and Lee explore the rich history of climbers who have come out of New England and gone on to make their mark in the greater climbing world. The guys talk about the great waves of New England climbers; how timing, location and circumstance played into their ability to make waves; and what makes New England climbers uniquely able to push li…
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Today Jay and Lee tackle your latest crop of listener questions! Tune in for their take on route names, bolting techniques, what makes a ‘boulder problem’, and more. Plus, the guys go deeper on the stewardship they believe is necessary to truly be considered a local, whether that be through man-hours or donations. Speaking of stewardship, if you’re…
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Today 5.15 climber and world-renowned first ascentionist Joe Kinder joins Jay and Lee on the pod! Joe has put up routes all over the globe, but his roots lay right here in New Hampshire. Hear the tale of how he broke into the New Hampshire climbing scene as a teenager in the 90s, and how that led him to becoming a part of the next wave of Rumney cl…
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If you’ve ever wondered what we mean by ‘bonus content’ when we talk about all of the great perks you get inside the First Ascent Patreon, today’s your chance to find out! Last week, Eric Zschiesche joined us on the podcast for a great talk, and we continued on for some insider-only Patreon chat. That conversation is what you’ll hear today! Eric go…
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Eric Zschiesche joins the pod today to share tales and wisdom from five decades of climbing. A longtime idol of Jay’s, Eric’s name has been scrawled across climbing history from his feats at Devil’s Lake to Zschiesche’s Corridor in North Carolina and beyond. You might even remember Mark Hudon mentioning Zschieshe’s presence a couple episodes back w…
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Today, Mike Gagnon joins Jay and Lee for some off the cuff chatter about all things climbing. Hear about their latest sends (and whippers), get updated on what’s going on at Miriam Woods, and get the guys’ takes on listener questions. Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be fo…
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Today we’re honored to welcome climbing legend Mark Hudon to the pod! You’ll definitely recognize Mark’s name as one of the top climbers of the 70s, both in New Hampshire and in The West, along with his climbing partner Max Jones. Tune in to hear Mark’s fascinating stories, which include how he and Max Jones originally linked up and began climbing …
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Today Scott Stevenson, the man responsible for some of the most beloved routes at Rumney, joins Jay and Lee on the pod! Hear about his first ascent of the iconic route Technosurfing, and more incredible tales about developing Rumney in the 80s when it was just a little known crag off the beaten path. The conversation doesn’t stop here! If you want …
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Is #vanlife everything it’s cracked up to be on social media? Nick Nelson, the owner of Exploration Vans, says yes! Tune in for a chat about van buildout opportunities across a spectrum of price points, reasons why custom vans are a great option for climbers, what to expect when hiring someone to create a custom buildout for you, and more. Plus, Ni…
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Today, Jay and Lee are joined by Val Shao, an absolute crusher at the crag who is also the organizer of the 30th annual International Climber’s Festival in Lander, WY. Learn all about this year’s International Climber’s Festival and what makes Lander an excellent climbing destination. Plus, hear Val’s take on the hot button debates that continue to…
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Today, Jay and Lee tackle one of the sacred cows of the climbing world: the irony inherent in some trad climbing ethics. Hear their thoughts about when trad purity can go too far and starts contradicting itself. Then, the guys debate how to approach ethics for both trad and sport climbing areas. How do you approach climbing ethics? Let us know at @…
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